« More Spherification with Noodles, Caviar, etc. | Main | Veal Cheeks with Mashed Purple Potatoes, Roasted Carrots, Reduction Sauce »
December 6, 2007
View Comments | Post CommentIs The Entree A Dying Concept?
The New York Times Dining section has played host to a debate over the last few days. Kim Severson's essay, "Is The Entree Heading for Extinction?" explores the phenomenon of declining portion size and an increasing number of courses. From the international scene, tapas, meze, and dim sum are transforming our ideas of what constitutes a "complete meal," but at high-end restaurants, degustation menus are all the rage. Many chefs say it's easier to impress with small plates.
Frank Bruni, food critic, responds, "In Defense Of The Entree." They're worth a read. What do you think?
Posted by Barzelay at December 6, 2007 1:39 PM | Comments (2) | Food Politics and Culture
Comments
Post a new comment
the only thing i've noticed in regards to this trend is that, inevitably, i am always far more interested in just about every appetizer on a menu, while i'm lucky if two or three entrees similarly strike my fancy.
i think it's true that appetizers allow for a lot more experimentation than entrees, because it's just a taste of something, so if it's a bit off or strange, no big deal. but i think that largely has to do with how we think about the "entree" anyway - that it has to be some relatively similar, composed meal.
personally, i like what michael mina is doing with the entree - designing it out of many small, unique, interesting components - because it seems like a nice compromise between the two objectives i always have when i dine: (1) to try many new and delicious things, and (2) to feel satisfied and full. i look forward to eating at his restaurant soon - and i think many chefs will be moving in this direction in the near future.
Posted by: jeanette at December 6, 2007 2:19 PM
It does seem true that appetizers are more interesting than entrees. Probably because, as you point out, chefs feel more free to experiment. Severson's article talks about the move away from a central protein as the focus of a dish--a focus that, I think, not only gave rise to the concept of the entree, but is still how most cooks (including me) conceive a course. We start with some protein, say, cornish game hen, and then pick sides that will go with it.
If you're designing the course around a veggie, or a starch, it becomes a different process. One isn't as limited by external portion indicators (i.e., one whole hen, or one whole duck breast, or one whole filet of fish). If you design the course around beet, for instance, maybe it ends up looking like this.
Posted by: Barzelay at December 6, 2007 2:27 PM
