July 26, 2007

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Vapiano--not for foodies?

Last weekend, my boyfriend and I ventured to Vapiano, the new “fresh casual” restaurant at 18th and M Streets. A German chain (started, I believe, by a former McDonald’s franchise owner), the restaurant strives to combine hipness and affordability in a way that only those crazy Europeans can. Matt has already written a bit about it here.

Here’s the hook: when you enter, you’re given a “chip,” which looks like a credit card and tracks your orders throughout the restaurant. Then, you are free to meander around the space, ordering food and drink from various stations. At the end of your journey, you bring your chip to the cashier to settle your tab.

When we visited, we started in the bar, where the happy hour specials were pretty enticing--$2.50 for draft beers (Pilsner Urquell or Peroni) and $2.50 for the house wines (both of which were pretty good, especially given the price). From there, we ordered pasta (pomodoro with spinach over linguine) and a pizza (prosciutto) and dug in. Was it the greatest meal of my life? Certainly not—but the pasta (which is made in-house) was fresh and the sauce/toppings were tasty, and the pizza crust was thin but not soggy. Not to mention we got out for less than $45, which included 6 drinks, the aforementioned food, and a large tip (there are no servers to speak of, but the employees pool all gratuities). On a Saturday night in DC, that’s nothing short of a miracle.

Quite pleased with the experience, I couldn’t wait to share the find with other DC food fans. Much to my surprise, however, there was already a lot of buzz about Vapiano in the blogosphere and on the message boards—and it was largely negative. Even worse, people who had never visited the restaurant were knocking it based solely on its cafeteria concept and price-point. In other words, the food snobs were on the attack.

Reading the naysayers’ comments got me thinking—is there a point at which your palate becomes so refined that you cannot eat “regular” food? Do true gourmands become so accustomed to all things haute cuisine that they cannot regress and appreciate the simplicity of a hearty, bargain-oriented meal? Or, does the lambasting of chains like Vapiano have less to do with taste buds and more to do with prestige and appearances and puffery?

I enjoy any opportunity to experience fine dining. I have been lucky enough to taste some truly incredible ingredients and to witness the genius of many of the country’s best chefs. But I have a pretty paltry paycheck, so I am constantly on the lookout for more modestly priced establishments at which to eat. Does eating at Vapiano mean that I don’t know food as well as someone who dines at The French Laundry or Le Bernardin every other month? Does enjoying my $7.75 pasta dish mean that I cannot also enjoy foie gras and Kobe beef?

I don’t know what makes a true epicure. All I know is that, while the world of gourmet cuisine and the world of fresh casual are vastly different, I’m sure glad that both worlds exist in Washington, DC.

Posted by bettyjoan at July 26, 2007 3:29 PM | Comments (7) | EatFoo 1.0 Posts


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You make such an excellent point. I'm glad that both options are available, too and enjoy Vapiano's happy hours, delicious proscuitto, fig and honey pizza - and props to the house salad dressing.
As we can see from countless blogs, perceived "foodies" are lifting their noses to certain brands before they even try them. It's important to remember that every one has different taste buds and to not judge a book by its cover. Food to feed the masses is getting tastier, healthier and more diverse by the minute. Panera, Vapiano and Z Pizza are grand examples. Embrace it.

I was reading an article in the NYTimes this week about Red Lobster rebranding their style/menu and putting on fancier pants if you will. Growing up on the water, I've ignored Red Lobster my entire life. Nonetheless, I was fascinated by the article, which showed where they get their fish, how they prepare it, etc. I'm not jonesing to go but now that I've read about it, I'll won't discount it on my next roadtrip through suburbia.

Posted by: Carrie at July 27, 2007 10:25 AM


Hear, hear! I totally agree with you. And I'm a foodie who also enjoys certain chains (Macaroni Grill...and by the way, Mcdonalds french fries are the best!)

Posted by: Herb at July 29, 2007 5:44 PM


Herb, I definitely have a soft spot in my heart for McD's. But Macaroni Grill is absolutely horrible. I would say that the two times I've eaten at Macaroni Grill (one of which was long before I even approached the high standards I now have for food) are literally the two worst culinary experiences I have ever had at any restaurant. And they were at two different locations. So if Vapiano = Macaroni Grill DC, I'll be avoiding it for sure. Betty... what are your thoughts on Macaroni Grill?

Posted by: Barzelay at July 30, 2007 3:59 AM


I was never a fan of Macaroni Grill, but mostly because they had vapid high school girls wandering around singing opera (badly) during peak dining times. Very annoying. When I'm in the mood for heavy, mass-produced Italian food, I much prefer the Olive Garden.

That said, I don't think Vapiano is like either of the aforementioned chains. The whole concept is pretty foreign (pun intended) in the U.S., so it's hard to explain--when you get back from California, David, you'll have to experience it for yourself. Jason and I returned again last night, and we had a fantastic homemade arugula ravioli and quite possibly the tastiest onion pizza (with tomatoes, rosemary, salt, and pepper) that I've ever eaten.

Posted by: bettyjoan at July 30, 2007 8:38 AM


To compare Vapiano to Macaroni Grill is missing the point. While many claim to have it, Vapiano really does produce "good food, fast".

I've got a feeling the concept will catch on quick in the US.

If you'd like to read the review I wrote on my blog, visit: http://applesbananas.blogspot.com/2007/07/i-can-come-back-here.html

Posted by: Anthony DeAngelo at July 30, 2007 2:37 PM


I work in the office building across the street and got a (take-out) lunch there about a month ago. It was a pasta with pesto, and it was excellent. I loved that they cooked the fresh pasta and toasted the pine nuts for the pesto right in front of me. That said, now that I know that they cook the pasta and toast the pine nuts in front of you, I will *not* consider it an option for a quick take-out lunch. Waiting for them to cook your meal isn't so bad (and really rather fun). Waiting while they cook the meals of the 3 parties in front of you, on the other hand was a bit tiresome.
But for the wait, I really liked it. But then, I'll be the first to admit my uneducated palate (but I'm trying to change that!).

Posted by: Pat at July 30, 2007 3:05 PM


I love Vapiano. It will be a great success in the US. The food and atmosphere are both amazing.

Posted by: Dominic at April 13, 2008 4:46 PM

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